A First-Timer's Guide to the Albanian Riviera

The Albanian Riviera stretches from Vlorë in the north to Sarandë in the south, a 120-kilometer ribbon of coastline that rivals anything in Greece or Croatia — without the crowds. If you're visiting Albania for the first time, this stretch of coast will redefine your expectations.

Start in Vlorë, where the Adriatic meets the Ionian Sea. The city itself is lively but unpolished — the real magic begins as you drive south over Llogara Pass. At 1,027 meters, the pass offers jaw-dropping views of the coast below, and the temperature drops dramatically as you climb through pine forests.

Himarë is the Riviera's unofficial capital: a seaside town with a ruined castle, a string of pebble beaches, and a growing number of excellent restaurants. Stay here for a few nights and use it as a base. Livadhi Beach, just south of town, is the finest stretch of sand on the entire Riviera.

Dhërmi and Drymades are where the coastline gets wild. Rocky coves, crystal-clear water, and beach bars that feel like they were built by surfers — because they were. These beaches fill up in August but are blissfully empty in June and September.

Ksamil, near the Greek border, is Albania's answer to the Maldives — three tiny islands sitting in impossibly turquoise water, reachable by a short swim or kayak. The nearby ruins of Butrint, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are reason enough to make the journey south.

The best time to visit is late May through early October. June and September offer warm water, sunshine, and fraction-of-the-crowd pricing. July and August are peak season — still cheaper than Greece, but accommodation fills fast. Book ahead or travel with flexibility.